I updated some old pattern reviews to transfer to this blog. This complicated project lives in my memory
quite well, so it is easy to recall the process I used to create the
garment. I cut and pasted the description below from The Sewing Place's
web site. I certainly wish it had been available when I made this. Pay
special attention to "very loose fitting, 78 inches, and intermediate to
advanced sewer." The flat felled seams in this are not the traditional
version. I chose the traditional.Pattern Description:
"Very loose fitting, knee-length wrap coat in one size. Front and sleeve seams establish fashion lines. Cut-on facing; flat felled side, shoulder and sleeve seams. Thoughtful, unique assembly order and 12 miters make this a fun project for an intermediate to advanced sewer. "To The Point" Coat is 78 inches around from front edge to front edge. There are vertical lines that go from the shoulder to the hem on the front and back to increase or decrease this measurement."
Pattern Sizing:
This is a very full coat. We all know that "one size fits all" is relative to how big the pattern is. In this case it errors on the high end of sizing. I made a muslin with a friend who was also sewing it. We cut out drastic amounts to get the garment so it wasn't overwhelming. I am a 5'4" and it falls at mid calf on me despite removing several inches of length. I reduced significant amounts from the back, but if I make again would leave a few inches more. The back is not sized as proportionally large as the front. I removed about 25" total. I did not use the alteration lines on the pattern. I wanted the fall of the lapel to look more like the fashion illustration. The point of the lapel on the muslin fell below my waist. When I altered the pattern I made my adjustments to reduce the circumference in the lapel area, then redrafted the diagonal lines.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I used a rayon/poly blend with an interesting weave so the finished garment did not have as much body as the fashion illustration depicts. However, the alterations I made to the lapel helped it to look more like the picture then the original pattern. I also left off the pockets. A fabric with more body would look closer to the illustration.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I liked the instructions for this pattern because they were detailed where it was needed and introduced several new techniques. I also introduced me to Steam a Seam Lite 2 in the narrow rolls, and this product is now a staple in my sewing supplies. It would have been much more difficult without it. I really liked the way it directed me to construct all the miters, they were easy, sharp, and consistently the intended angle. Another technique that I thought was great was her back neck facing application. The curve is shaped quite different than the traditional facing and attached to the front in a unique way. It is fused down then you top-stitch over it. It lays wonderfully.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The large sizing was troublesome and a great deal of work to adjust. The length of the lapel was less flattering before alteration. The finish garment does flow nicely and is flattering.
This would be a great pattern for someone with the sewing skills who is taller or whose build can carry it well. Make sure you are confident in your ability to alter patterns and your drafting skills if you are on smaller end of pattern sizing. Mine is a very basic rendition of this. There are so many wonderful embellishments that could be showcased on this pattern. Design possibilities are quite open for contrasting fabric, trim, and surface techniques. This pattern is less fitted then what is popular right now but pairs best with slimmer fitting coordinates.
This project took on a life of its own and I swore I would never make it again at the time. In fact I really didn't like it for awhile after completion. Having said that, I have worn it many times, and I never fail to get a compliment. It flows nicely and it displays the weave of the fabric well. Unfortunately the interesting weave doesn't show up well in the pictures.You can see a version of this jacket without the lengthwise alterations at Ann Smith's review. I do not believe that the pattern is available from Louise Cutting any longer.
