It Always Starts with Interesting Textiles

I love fabric. I love bargains. I love design. 

Add them all up and they equal my newly redesigned bedroom. I love the thrill of the hunt when shopping. I collected and gathered things for the room over a long period of time by cruising clearance racks, Homegoods, TJ Maxx, Pier One, JoAnn Fabrics, and digging amongst gifts and stockpiles. I am the forever patient shopper when I am decorating. I will wait forever until I find what I want at a reasonable price. It takes awhile. Probably longer than what most would consider reasonable. In the end I am always happy with the end product.

The bed spread fabric was the starting point for everything. 

It whispered when I walked by and caught my attention on a JoAnn's clearance table.. It was out of my normal taste but it was so interesting that it inspired to me. It is a jacquard where the flowers are the only thing that weaves through from the other layer. I considered a duvet but settled for one layer that can be used for all seasons. I didn't use any kind of pattern but just based it upon bed measurements and where I wanted it to end. That fabric was some bratty stuff. It wanted to refuse to stay in place. Those interesting layers shifted and shimmied with no shame. The walking foot and miles of hand basting brought them into submission.

Design is in the details. A good bargain leaves room for indulgence. Hence the roped piping, whatever you call it, trim cost as much as the fabric.  It just wasn't enough. I decided to put two layers of trim together. I could have gone with just the piping, but there was something about the top layer, its colors, and pattern that just added an extra element in a needle bending breaking kind of way. I can't let things be easy. Where would the fun be in that?

Close-up of  curtain basket weave

I didn't have to make curtains! Did you hear me giggle just a tad insanely as you read that? I have made a lot of curtains this spring. It was so nice to pop my super bargain clearance that matched the bedspread perfectly curtains from
Target onto those rods.

Color is the soul of a room.

All those warm colors just wrap around me to create a peaceful place, but it needed just a little bit of cool to shine. From the beginning I decided the room needed some turquoise or teal so things didn't get monotonous.There was enough of it in different shades throughout the room I don't think I need to recover my glider. I learned last weekend that Kandinsky thought color and shape evoked emotional qualities. It was a reoccurring theme in his work. It must be why I have always like his work. Colors have a powerful effect on me and personality of a room.

My taste in art runs a huge gamut of style and content. 

Dropped in JoAnns, fell off wall, dented desk, not even a chip

I would like to say there was a master plan to the accessories, but in reality it is based more upon colors I like together, along with the pattern and content that captures my attention. My walls are covered with a gift from Zimbabwe, a shadow box that has been collected since college, pieces I acquired in our travels, a big glass platter that is impossible to break,(ask me how I know this) prints and plates from HomeGoods. They were all collected disparately and at different times with the curtains and bedspread as a reference point. It just always seems right to me that family pics should be in the bedroom. They remind me of what has the highest value in my life. They are the first thing I see in the morning and the last thing at night.

I like my clear based lamps amongst all of this. However, they open and you can put things in them. It will be interesting to see what makes their home in them eventually. At this point, I haven't identified anything that needs to be there.

All the other "stuff" are things from our families or personal past.

Furniture with memories.

The furniture represents a lot of relationships from our lives. Our bedroom set was a wedding present from my husband's wonderful parents. The antique cedar chest was passed on from my fabric loving hoarding aunt. The glider was originally bought for the nursery. Since then it has migrated though different rooms in my house and represents so many good memories.The vintage table the monster TV is on was purchased at rummage sale and refinished by my sister long ago. Do you think my husband would notice if I put the TV on the curb? That monstrosity is not my friend. My beloved roll top desk from my childhood is a little crowded but

needed a safe home. That is my Raggedy Ann from my

I love all the roofline angles but it furniture placement is limited.

childhood and my husband's Raggedy Andy from his. I think it is fun to see them together. I have wanted a mirror jewelry armoire for a long time. Last, Christmas my husband surprised me with this one. The bookcase is new but a total necessity. It will always be packed with books that I want to keep and a ton that I want to read. My books always overflow unapologetically.

I have always liked putting a bunch of things together in a room and see what emerges. It was fun to unpack those boxes where I had kept everything gathered along the way and bring that mental muse to fruition. Bonus, a sewing project mixed in to create something unique.

 

Click here to see more photos of the room. 

Was Picasso a Failure? or Tell Your Inner Perfectionist to SHUT UP!

Do you think Picasso was a failure? He was if an unfinished product or less than stellar work is the basis for that label. We judge him by his best work. The stellar examples of his expertise. We do not judge him by all the trial and error, ideas that didn't bear impressive work, or the examples of practice to develop technical or physical skill. So often we focus on the latter in the journey we take in our "craft" not what we have learned from them or the stellar examples.  We would not do this if we valued the creative learning process and the evolving product that results from that process.

A small museum just north of where I live discovered that their Picasso, "Blue Room," actually has another Picasso painting underneath it. The curator of the meeting explained in an interview that it was common. It doesn't add monetary value to the painting but is extremely valuable in communicating Picasso's influence, thoughts, artisic process and learning at that time.  Often an artist wouldn't like where a piece of work was going so they would quit. Painting over it saved them time. She explained it was an important discovery because the hidden painting was done during the time that Picasso was heavily influenced by Munch. She said it shows us what he was experimenting with as a result of of that influence and where it appeared in his later work. One of the great masters had an unfinished product or it was something that wasn't up to his standards for "publication." Yet, he just kept painting - wonderfully.

Kids Are Picassos; Adults Not So Much

I have taught many kids how to sew and several adults.Those kids, in their own right, are Picassos. They are practiced at the process of learning. They understand trial and error as part of that process. They are so darn happy with their finished product. It is a testimony to the hard work and all the new things they have learned. They will wear it with a smile on their face.

Adults, not so much. So many take every mistake as a personal affront. Testimony to skills they SHOULD have, despite never having done it before. They have no muscle memory from practice but that shouldn't matter. Too often, they highlight every mistake or less than perfect thing in the finished garment.  Many will not wear it. They ignore that the stuff they buy never lives up to those standards for fit or construction quality. They have often forgot the process and joy of learning. Only a few that learn to sew as an adult continue producing in the long term.They are just so darn hard on themselves. I am not going to examine where all that comes from. I am going to make a few suggestions.

Tell the Inner Perfectionist to Shut Its Big Mouth

Can we have a little positive self talk here? If someone else said that nasty old stuff to you would you take it or tell him/her to shut up? Enough said.

Before You Start Questions

Before you start a project ask yourself the following:
Why am I doing this?
What do I want to learn from this?
What idea, skill, or process do I very specifically want to play with while I am doing this?

Then make a check list of those things.

Identify Quality

Decide what quality is for you in this particular project. Be very specific and use your current skill level as a frame of reference. In other words, be realistic. Also, ask an important question, "Does it really matter?"

Use what you have identified as quality elements to create a check list that describes specifically what you will see when you are done.

You can edit the list to reduce elements that your skill level is not capable of producing. However, you CANNOT add to it.

Last But Not Least

If you choose to complete the project, use that quality list to determine how satisfied you are with it not some inner critical voice. Regardless of the projects completion status use the list generated from the "Before You Start Questions" to assess if you have achieved your goals. Jot down what you learned and where you want to go with that next.

The whole process of sewing is to express yourself, learn new skills, sew interesting things and create unique clothes

 

Be a Picasso. Learn from your project! Enjoy the process!

Mustard Hoodie Tutorial

Now this is a hoodie that you want to wear. Create this stylish hoodie this weekend with "Small Things" tutorial and pattern. I would say wait until winter but we know in Wisconsin you are are going to need something that looks this good AND is warm a few times over the summer. This blogger has generously shared her pattern for the hood, directions and answered questions. This is a blog worth visiting. Click here to visit Small Things.
https://www.paprikapatterns.com/shop/jasper-sweater/

Sewing Room Inspiration

Last week I revealed my fascination with sewing studios just in time for Patternreview.com to post this lovely example of a do it yourself design by someone named Ira Martin. I love the way she put it together with commonly found elements and a subtle sense of style. Take time to look at her entire sewing studio by clicking on the link below. I think her blog is worth a look too.  I want her wall art that says, "Sewing mends the soul." Isn't that really true?

Ira Martin's Sewing Studio
Ira Martins Sewing Blog

2014 Chicago Haute Couture Fashion Show

I am so fortunate to live within a reasonable drive to thriving groups of apparel sewists. I have the "Pattern Goup" at Gayfeather Fabrics in Madison and the Haute Couture Club of Chicago. Both groups produce such creative and technically sound garments. They inspire and encourage me. Haute Couture celebrated their 50 anniversary this year. I am happy to have the opportunity to share some of the fabric and sewing love from this group with you. Please click on the link below to see the garments from the 2014 Haute Couture Fashion Show. All of the design were created and constructed by members. Click here to see the show!

Portofino: A Blast from Loes Hinse Past

Funny thing is I don't remember the insanity in this one. I just remember how much I liked the dress and how well the bodice stayed in place for a "wrap" style. This is no longer available for purchase, but I would be glad to lend you mine to copy. If you are like me, and most of you are, you just might have a copy of your own in your pattern collection. After looking at this again, I just might make this in the sheer. Imagine, I could just make it with no search and destroy fitting problems.

I am resurrecting and updating my old pattern reviews. I seem to have misplaced them in the computer transfer. I am foraging on the Internet for the pic and reviews where I originally posted them. It is a nice little walk down sewing memory lane. Glad you can join me in the stroll.

Portofino Review

Portofino, Portofino, how did I alter you? Let me count the ways. Do you hear the faint sound of hysterical laughter in the background? Pay no attention; that is just the sound of me getting closer to the edge of insanity as I made this garment. It didn’t help that I decided to make this to wear to a wedding the next day. I thought this would take me 4 hours to make at the most, and it would have except for the gazillion tweaks and several alterations.

 

Description of the pattern:

The Portofino, by Loes Hinse, has a separate bodice attached to an A-line four panel skirt with a godet at both the center front and back. The bodice is a modified princess seam from the shoulder/neck area with a wrap front insert. It has very fitted elbow length sleeves.

 

Why did you choose this pattern?

I thought the v neck wrap front combined with the higher waistline would be flattering. I also like the idea of the godets inserted at the hemline to add fullness to the skirt without adding excess fabric hanging from the waist and over the hips.

 

What fabric did you choose? Why?

I refer to this fabric as evil black polyester crepe. Sewing on it is my penance for stockpiling way too much fabric over the years. I am not a big fan of 100% polyester because I always feel as if I am marinating in it. I am rather baffled as why I bought so much of it for a suit way in the distant past, but it is great fabric for wearable muslins. It is actually a nice fabric, not all that uncomfortable to wear, it drapes well and looks good, but it is evil to sew. It ravels incessantly, slips, and slides, then revolts at being creased in exactly the place you want it. I have kept it around because I can make something out of it when I want to experiment on fit and in the end be rewarded with a garment I can actually wear. It is rather mysterious because I keep making things out of it and I always seem to have enough left for something else. I think it may have come to life in my fabric stockpile and procreates in the dark.

 

What modifications did you make to the construction process recommended for this pattern?

If I were working with a very sheer lightweight fabric I would have used the recommendations for finishing the neck edge, skirt and sleeve hems. However, the evil black polyester crepe would have totally rebelled with such skimpy amounts. The pattern instructions call for finishing the fabric edges of the sleeve and skirt hem by serging or with a zig zag stitch, then it asked that the sleeves be turned under ½ “ and the skirt hem 3/8” to topstitch from inside the garment to reduce puckering. I made the hem 2” on the skirt and used my blind hemstitch to hem. The sleeves have a 1” hem and I topstitched it. I finished the edge of both with a zig zag.

The neck edge was to be finished in the same manner with only 3/8” being turned under. I really don’t feel this is sufficient for most fabrics but especially not for working with my friend. The shoulders and neck support a great amount of the weight for the dress. My fear was that it would stretch out of shape with time. I ran to JoAnn’s at 8:30PM to pick up something that could be used to attach at the neck edge and reinforce the area. I had in mind twill tape because I thought it could be shaped to the moderate neckline curve. It has been a long time since I bought twill tape in the package and just assumed it was still made out of cotton. I didn’t bother to look at the fiber content as I was running to the check out counter before closing. When I took it out of the package I found that it is now made of my friend 100% polyester. There goes the ability to shape it with steam and manipulation. Since I was still on my quest to wear it by 1:00 PM the next day, I decided to work with it. I sewed it on to the neck edge by laying it on the right side of the edge similar to how lingerie elastic is attached. I turned it under, fought with it and the iron around the shoulder curve, clipped it a tiny tiny bit on the outside so it would lay flat, and topstitched it. It proceeded to pucker and pleat no matter how much I eased it as I was sewing. Tearing out little black stitches on crepe late at night is not a fun thing. I got out my Steam a Seam Lite 2, fused the tape down all the way around the neck and then easily topstitched. The edge really lays nicely now and the twill tape adds that stabilizer that helps prevent gaping in wrap tops. The neckline on this is a little low but is easily compensated with a safety pin. I have an idea for how to make it shallower in the alterations section if you are interested.

 

How is the sizing of the pattern? What alteration did you have to make for size?

Have you ever tried on your almost finished garment, took one look in the mirror, then wanted to grasp your sharpest shears and cut it into very tiny pieces? Every seam matched and the darts were almost perfect but after I attached the skirt to the bodice it looked like a big Hefty yard waste bag with holes cut for the arms and neck. I truly know this is an accurate comparison, because I have done this to a Hefty bag when I didn’t have a raincoat or umbrella in a torrential downpour.

I am a firm believer in flat pattern measurement and knew it was essential with this pattern. As I tried on the bodice of the dress during construction I thought it looked great even when I pulled it down to simulate the weight of the skirt on it. I guess I didn’t pull enough because once I added the skirt the weight took all the shape out of it. I fought with it and won in the end. I feel obligated to make another one just to use what I learned while I was altering the evil black one.

Before I cut the pattern out I altered the sleeve circumference and the width of the sleeve cap. The bottom of the sleeve is very tight and will NOT fit most women. I could barely get the tape measure around my forearm at the measurement of the sleeve bottom. Just in case you are wondering – my forearms are not all that big. I slashed the sleeve vertically up the middle to the center top. I made a horizontal slash across the sleeve to the bottom of the armscye at each side. I spread the vertical line to add 1 5/8” to the sleeve bottom and spread it enough to add ¾ “ to the sleeve cap. This worked out just right and the sleeve fits well.

I measured the flat pattern before cutting from the side seam to center front of the garment, the shoulder to the bottom of the bodice, the shoulder seam width, and the sleeve length. The XXL were all well matched to my measurements. I didn’t measure the shoulder width because I knew that Loes Hinse leaves enough room in the XXL for me in the back. I measured the width of the bodice bottom, and with ease that was appropriate with my measurements. I tried the bodice on before attaching the sleeves. The neckline sits away from the neck quite a bit so the shoulder seam curved out and extended too far over my shoulder. I marked it where my “bones told me” the sleeve cap should be and then cut off the excess curve to ease out to the pattern armscye about ½ way down the front and back. I was concerned about the sleeve cap fitting into the altered armscye but knew that I had enough fabric to cut another pair if needed. They fit perfectly and came out over the top of the arm just the way a fitted sleeve should. The bodice still fit well at this point and hugged up under the bust just the way it was supposed to. I was confidently thinking that it would make a cute top if I added length and a closure. Then I attached on the skirt.

This is not heavy fabric but it was enough to pull the bodice into a hanging lump of fabric. The bodice hung too low with the waist at an extremely unflattering part of my anatomy straight from the bust. Remember the Hefty bag. My perfectly matched seams were sacrificed to the great alteration gods of sewing. I sewed a wider seam to 7/8” attaching the bodice and skirt. That raised the seam to where it was intended. If I sew this again I would make this adjustment higher up in the pattern before cutting then true the neckline slant. This would raise the V of the wrap. I then started to pin out the excess fabric on the sides until the skirt fell nicely from the waist. I discovered that little to no ease is needed at the “waist” with this style. I then started shaping the sides by taking it in at the underarm seam angling it in to waist seam until the seam was 1” then angling it out again to until it met the side seam approximately 9” below the waist. Now the bodice seams did not match so I maneuvered them around some, stitched the seam again, and back to matching seams. I pressed the seam towards the bodice side and I had a fitted dress, but I could still get it on over my head without a zipper.

 

How were the instructions?

The instructions were sufficient if one was sewing a sheer lightweight dress. Different methods are needed for other fabrics. The directions mention pressing a little at the end. This dress needs to be pressed a lot during construction for it to end in an attractive garment. I always press as I sew each seam before doing the seam finish then again after.

 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I really like how the finished neckline follows the curve of the shoulders and neck. The mock princess seams curve with the line of the bust perfectly and fall from the shoulders just as they should. I think this also helps reduce the gape usually associated with wrap styles because it doesn’t have to wrap all the way to the side around so many curves. The method for inserting the godets is wonderful, and if followed creates a perfect point at the top with the back matching the front. I did sew from the hem up on those seams to help this. The evil black polyester crepe shimmies and stretches easily so it helped to keep them where they were supposed to be. The second seam sewn made one side higher at the waist. My sewing teachers would not approve, but I decided to just trim it so it matched the other side and it worked out perfectly. The godets also add a lot of fullness without it falling from the waist in an unflattering manner.

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? How do you like the finished project? Would you sew it again?

I believe it looks like the photo and it is very comfortable to wear because everything “stays where it should.” I think it makes a nice “little black dress” and is versatile to dress up or wear under a jacket. My original intent was to make a sheer version and layer it over a slip type dress of a solid. I may still do that but it isn’t high in my priority of projects at this time. Now that I have it fitting so well I feel obligated to do something with it; I might just tackle that idea of a blouse. By the way, the dress was totally finished and pressed 1 ½ hours before I had to leave for the wedding.