I have already explained my fascination with Chaddo Ralph
Rucci. Consequently, you know I could not pass up sharing his Spring 2015 collection and translating the article at the end of this post from
French Vogue that declares him an “American Fashion Treasure.”
First for the disclaimers, I do not speak one word of
French, what I attempt to speak is mutilated by a horrible accent, we know the
Internet translators are not always accurate and my ability to fix those
language idiosyncrasies will be flawed by my ignorance. Despite this, I think you will get
the jest of the article and appreciate the attention French Vogue gave to an
American designer.
Given that, the pictures in this article do not even come close to
capturing the exquisite design details, construction and drape of Rucchi's Spring 2015 creations. I would have
picked different garments from the collection to illustrate the points in the
article, but what do I know compared to French Vogue?
You have to watch this
short video of the fashion show so you can appreciate his mastery of draping. If you love to sew fine garments you owe it to yourself.French Vogue Article:
Ralph Rucci: The National Treasure of American Fashion
New York Fashion Week, Day 2
"Loved it! "Exclaimed Padma Lakshmi, wearing a
dress-blue silk jumpsuit as she kissed Ralph Rucci backstage after his
outstanding parade.
The designer, whose enamored coterie of groupies filled the
glass workshop lined with books from floor to ceiling, deserves the title of
"National Treasury of American fashion." His clothes are closest to
the elegance of haute couture in New York.
From the top in white trapeze to the body-conforming to the
sumptuous dress "Infanta" duchess satin in closing the parade, it was
a tour de force.
Curiously, Ralph Rucci exposes his thoughts far and wide in
the program notes, revealing his collection. He evokes the "balance"
of his clothes, a high trapezoid forming a triangle over cigarette pants.
And then there is this technique he borrowed from his own
couture: pipes laid on a bed of tulle. Having read the presentation, which
began with a quote from the poet TS Eliot, I expected what these luxury
watchmakers called "complications."
But in fact the clothing was a great masterpiece of cutting
simplicity and that famous piping. That was inserted at the wrists and hips in
a white jacket worn over narrow black pants.
If fashion is defined as either architects or designers,
Rucci is a rare blend of the two, able to cut a rigorous coat whose motives are
from his own designs.
The most modern piece was a glittering and translucent
waterproof jacket with a pattern of pink cherry blossoms worn over a white
blouse and black pants.
We, fashion journalists, are so conditioned to think that
clothing with this level of manual work must be "made in Italy." It was nice to
hear Ralph Rucci say that his entire collection was manufactured in his New York
workshop.
And he said this with pride.
Taken from:
French Vogue 7 September, 2014
Suzy Menkes
INTERNATIONAL VOGUE EDITOR
Ralph Rucci : le trésor national de la mode américaine
Downloaded and translated using Google Tranlator on September
19, 2014 on: http://www.vogue.fr/suzy-menkes/la-chronique-de-suzy-menkes/articles/ralph-rucci-america-s-national-fashion-treasure-fw2015-suzy-menkes/23619
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