Indianapolis Fabric Love

I love to visit Indianapolis!

I love the fabric stores in Indianapolis!

Which is one of the reasons I love to visit Indianapolis.

 Indianapolis is this sleeper of a city that isn’t commonly thought of as a destination. Until you visit. There are so many interesting things to do there. The downtown is one of the most vibrant moderate sized ones that I have visited and most accessible by walking. There are museums, sport venues, excellent dining, beautiful parks and this great canal the winds though the city with a walking path. It is also an easily drivable city if you Google where you want to go or use the GPS on your phone. Think lots of one way streets.

Now to the important stuff - 3 wonderful fabric stores.

There are 3 wonderful fabric stores in the city that are a must visit for the fabric obsessed. This is my third visit. Two of the stores I have been to each time. I discovered another hidden little gem last week that will be added to my priority list of things to do. One is right downtown and the others a short drive.

I found my kindred fabric spirit at Erin Young Designs.  Visiting with Erin Young and a pilgrimage to her store is now my priority first stop for our Indy trip each fall and spring. It is so fun to talk design ideas and fine construction techniques. I love to peek at her latest bridal creation and be tempted by her fabric acquisitions.  The entire staff is as engaged in this process as the fabric obsessed customer. Erin Young and her assistant are both formally trained in fashion design. They get all motivated about fabric, design and construction just like those of us who are fabric obsessed. After all, fabric acquisition is a whole experience for the fabric obsessed. It isn't simply bringing home a chunk of textile.

Erin Young's primary business is bridal and formal wear design. Like any fabric obsessed person she couldn't just stop there. Her store has a small selection of handpicked apparel fabric for their unique prints, fiber content, hand, drape, patterns, weaves and colors. They have been chosen because they are fascinating little treasures. Those little treasures immediately sent me into a creative muse imagining what their destiny should be. She has added enticing trims to the selection also. The best tactile experience this trip was her silk cashmere blend double sided cloth. I have never felt anything like it in my long textile life. She plans on a cape class this fall so she is adding some wonderful wools for that lucky crowd of people. She also has beautiful formal wear fabric sale.  I could easily have said, "One of each please." I think after a few visits I am coming close to that fulfillment of that idea. Unfortunately, despite the reasonable prices for the quality of fabric offered, even I have to be prudent at times,

She stocks a small selection of on trend independent patterns that are reliably drafted with high standards.  If you live in the area sign your child up for one of her sewing experiences for kids. Maybe you will find a group or class for yourself too. Regardless, stop in and say, "Hi!" for me and buy some fabric. I would hate to see it stay on the shelf. It needs a good home.

This is a hidden little gem of a store that you have to find. Literally. It is off in this cool little neighborhood. You will notice the bridal store first, then see the sign and still wonder about where to go. Enter the bridal  store and enjoy your stroll through those beautiful designs. Then proceed to the back of the store where all the cool creative stuff occurs. The fabric for sale is nestled back there with those that understand their potential.

 

When you think Crimson Tate think two words. FUN! INSPIRING!  Also, think about this folks. I don’t quilt. Crimson Tate is a quilt store. Their fabric is so unique and the store has such a good vibe that I just have to go there. I always find some cool fabric that I can use for clothing or accessories. My favorite fabrics to “pet” there are the Japanese cottons, Liberty of London, and their great graphic prints. They also encourage garment construction. They have samples made of their fabrics and a selection of patterns that will entice you. Their ribbon selection is equally intriguing along with their

notions and other little cool items they sell. The biggest appeal for me is the staff. They are always upbeat and encourage my enthusiasm. Here is the one of the biggest compliments I can think of in regards to this store. If I lived there I would probably take quilting classes because I so love the fabric and the store/staff. I would just want to be part of that energy.

The French Seam stocks “you have to touch me right now” fabric. Walk in the door of this elegant little shop and you will just itch to see what fabric you have to buy. This mom and daughter enterprise knows their fabric. They focus on high quality fabric for apparel sewing but also offer a wall of beautiful quilt fabric. A large portion of that can be adapted for apparel also. They feature a variety of top and dress weight prints and solids that will not find be found elsewhere. They remember to include the ever elusive selection of bottom weight fabrics in a variety of textures, colors and fiber contents that is often overlooked in other stores. Their selection of prints, dress and top weight fabric will tease and torment you. Not only are they visually appealing but their hand and drape is remarkable. They are my most likely to be petted fabric in the French Seam. They have a large selection of on trend patterns from independent pattern companies plus Vogue and KWIK Sew. Their button selection is comprised of those intriguing ones that always seem to be housed in the clear cylinder tubes.  Those little things just scream for me to peruse and purchase. Buttons make or break a custom garment. These will only put the finishing touches on one.

Talk about serendipity, their anniversary sale is the same weekend in the spring my husband and I visit Indy. His reaction? “Oh swell.”

Important Discovery: Korean Pojagi

I discovered something I need to learn more about. Korean Pojagi. The contrast of seaming with sheer fabrics marries that element of construction into design that fascinates me. This is the same idea I spoke of in my  Chaldo Ralph Rucci post from last week. Take a look at this blog post. The textiles embrace beautiful simplicity.
Sri Threads Blog


While I was down the Pinterest rabbit hole I also came across Japanese Boro. The stitches are fascinating. I see some studying in my future.Take a look at this Pinterest Board by Kit White.

 

Rucci: Master of Design Details & Textile Manipulation

Chaldo Ralph Rucci’s garments are neither flashy nor outrageous. They are fascinating. Rucci is the master of design details. I am impressed and fascinated with his understanding of textiles in relationship to construction. He exploits it to create unexpected elements and drape that capture my attention. For Rucci the delight is in the details. What really makes me want to stop and examine his garments is the infusion of design details. This may sound crazy but he does seams impeccably. They are often included as a design element rather than just a way to hold textiles together. One really has to see his garments for yourself. Pictures and film cannot tell the whole story he builds each design around. I discovered his work when I was fortunate enough to see some of his past designs at an exhibit in Charlotte a few years ago. Leaning as close as I possibly could to the garment, I spent a great deal of time looking at all the little details and the way he exploits the fabric he uses. Please enjoy his 2013 runway show. Delight in the details
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2013 Spring Chaldo Ralph Rucci Spring Collection

May I Have a Little Spring with that Sunshine?

I decided to import a little spring into my world since the real spring refuses to arrive. The photos from this project keep popping into my head during this long succession of dreary cold days. I think this is one of my favorite projects despite having made it quite some time ago. There is just something about sweet little girl clothes that capture the imagination. The pattern isn't available any longer, but there are very similar ones out there.

I was looking at the children’s patterns hoping there was something new for my little boy when I saw this pattern for girls. I fell in love with it and decided to make it for my 6-year-old niece. Simplicity 5946 is a woman’s and girl’s multisize coat and hat pattern. The pattern envelope recommends it be made of fleece, with a border print, but it would also accommodate a light coat weight woven. It is a swing style coat with an open pleat in the back and easily lends itself to surface embellishment.

I chose a periwinkle single sided fleece with contrasting fleece for the surface embellishment. There were not any border prints that I liked so I decided to make flowers of my own and apply them to the coat. I cut the flowers and leaves out of the contrasting fleece. I sewed the leaves on with a single line of stitching through the middle to mimic the vein in a real leaf. The flowers were cut from 3 different colors of fleece. I did not sew them to the coat but attached them with a yellow button for the flower center using 6 strands of embroidery thread pulled through the holes once, with the thread ends facing the outside of the coat, then triple tied for to look like stamens in a real flower. There are three flowers on the bottom of each front side and a flower on right front collar. Leaving the edges loose on the flowers and leaves creates a three dimensional appearance to the design. This isn’t a problem with fleece since it doesn’t ravel. This technique was suggested in the

pattern directions.

The hat was made from the same periwinkle fleece but it doesn’t stretch. I created a contrasting band using the double sided pink fleece that I had for the flowers. This has a fair amount of stretch like most fleece so it allows the hat to hug the head. The pattern calls for a flower on the band but I put it on the top where all the seams meet.

Using the fabric measurements on the back of the pattern leaves a lot of extra fabric. There is also a lot left of the contrasting fabric because of how little is needed for the flowers. I made a pink scarf to go with the jacket and a small purse with the excess fabric. The purse is a small pocket style with a pink braid strap that I knotted and raveled at the end. I sewed across the braid to limit the raveling. The same flowers from the coat were put on the front of the purse.

Beware of the armscye size! The circumference of the armhole is extremely small. I unfortunately didn’t discover this until I had cut out the pattern was ready to insert the sleeves. My niece lives far away from me so I had to make adjustments using measurements given over the phone. In the end I inserted a “gusset” or diamond shaped piece of fabric in the underarm seam. It isn’t the neatest looking part of the finished garment, but it does allow enough space in the armscye for comfortable wear. Make sure you use flat pattern measurements to select the size for this pattern. There is a very generous amount of design ease and could easily be too big using the envelope size measurement. I like the roll up sleeve design. Children’s coats often become too short in the arms. With this full style it will allow the child to wear the jacket longer by just making the cuff narrower. It was a great feature since I was sewing this for someone that couldn’t try it on. I didn’t have to worry about sleeve length at all. The instructions that I read in this pattern were good but to be honest I didn’t follow them. This is a simple pattern so I didn’t really need them with the exception of the flower design, the back pleat stitching, and hat assembly.

The coat looks exactly like the pattern illustration. I found the band on the hat to be significantly narrower than the illustration. It makes it look quite different and necessitated putting the flower embellishment on the top of the hat instead of the band. The collar in this pattern lays exceptionally well. I used fleece for the under collar, instead of the broadcloth suggested by the pattern, and it still folds over well. The under collar is cut a little smaller, like I was taught it should, so it pulls the upper collar slightly under and holds the fold.

I was fun to sew a “fru fru” garment for a little girl, not something I usually get to do. I would sew this again and might try the women’s size without the “fru fru” for myself. I would definitely redraft the armscye and upper sleeve for better fit.