Thursday, October 2, 2014

Pukey Green Top Alert - Don’t Let the Pattern Picture Deter You

 McCalls 6607
Buddy just had to be close to me.


You looked at the pictures and probably said, “What, another summer top? Hasn’t anyone told this woman it is the beginning of October?” The temperatures definitely have communicated that fact. However, this top can easily be made for colder temps with heavier fabric so take a look at it for your fall and winter wardrobe.

Don’t let the pattern envelope pictures discourage you. Ignore the pukey green version with poor drape that is combined with other interesting colors choices. Don’t let the other crushed velvet disco version do that either. Wait, the pukey green fabric is making an appearance as leggings peeking out from under the disco sheen in this pic. What was McCalls thinking? Don’t follow their example. In fact. channel your creativity towards this pattern. Combine it with some interesting fabric and it creates a unique, somewhat artistic, garment.

Some things to think about before you start.

This pattern is well drafted and goes together easily. The deep cowl fits into the opening with no excess ease. The front neckline and armscye is very low. You need to think about what you will be wearing under this as you select fabric.

 

Why this fabric was chosen.

Ignore the recommendation for stretch knits. It totally isn't necessary. I went to my treasure trove of Canvasbacks fabrics (defunct high end women's sportswear manufacturer) and found this printed polyester lace that I had left aging in the fabric collection. I was waiting for a pattern as unique as the fabric. The extreme drape of this fabric helps this be a flattering garment. There is a fair amount of volume in the top so it needs to hang close to the body to be flattering. The large cowl also needs the same qualities to hang in an attractive loop.
This is actually a floral print.

 

Choosing the Size

I chose the size in this pattern based upon the bust measurement. I find that when a garment does not skim the body it helps to have it fit closely in the bust for it to be flattering on me. I choose the bust because of my somewhat round body type. I would use the same guideline for selecting any size in this pattern for other body types due to the “swing” style of the garment. Fitting it to the bust suggests an illusion of a body silhouette somewhere in a flowing garment.

 

Construction Tips & Techniques

Construction of this garment is quite easy even with the more challenging fabric I chose. The following construction techniques were used when assembling this pattern:
  • The open areas in the lace must be considered when deciding on seam width and finish. 
  • All the side, shoulder and cowl seams are trimmed to ¼” and zig zagged together to help prevent them from showing on the outside though the lace. 
  • I used a somewhat narrow (2) shorter (2) zig zag stitch to construct the entire garment. This helps compensate for all the open areas and secures the fabric where ever the textile occurs.
  • It is imperative to stabilize the shoulders with seam binding, twill tape or another highly stable material so it doesn’t stretch out of shape or tear in this high stress area. There is a great deal of fabric hanging from these narrow shoulder seams that, when combined with the movement of the drape, could distort this area of the garment.
  • The armscye and hem edges are turned 1/8” widths twice then zig zagged.

 

Level of skill needed for success.

This garment went together quickly and easily even with this somewhat more complex fabric. Consequently, I recommend this pattern for beginners, if they use a little more stable fabric, to expert sewists.

 

More ideas for this pattern.

I am definitely going to make this pattern again. My next one will be in a sweater knit for winter. I have limited experience with sweater knits so it will be an interesting skill builder for me.

However, my imagination runs a little wild with this one. I can see a contrasting fabric on the cowl. There is so much potential for reverse applique, trims, embroidery and fabric manipulation. Use view A and take in the sides. Instead of a swing style with high volume you would have something closer to the body for those who desire that silhouette. Try this one out and post your link to your version.


Links:


Pattern envelope:

Pattern  black line drawing:


4 comments:

  1. Love the outfit, love the dog, love the flowers! Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  2. You know what? I keep seeing reviews of this and get all jazzed about, then I return to that envelope and wonder what I was thinking. Your version is the anti-envelope! Its adorable!

    ReplyDelete