Alabama Chanin New Book with Nod to the Past

Love the Skill, Love the Look, Love the Values

What makes a person interesting for you?  I find myself asking this as I am excited to learn Natalie  is releasing another book, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns.  I wanted to tell all of you about this. Then I asked myself, “Why her?” Why do I sit up and take notice when I see her name or designs? I like following her. I like her strong independence. I like finding out what she is up to. I want to find out what she is thinking. My interest lies in her past success, her departure from her own brand, but mostly what she did with that challenge.  I like that she is someone who has incredible inherent talent with textiles but wants to pass her convictions, skills and design insight on to others. Her ego doesn’t make her want to be exclusive but inclusive.  She seems to operate from a platform of “do no harm” and help people flourish.

Chanin of Alabama Chanin,

Unlike almost every other designer, when she sought success, she left New York to return home to rural Alabama. She departed from her original Project Alabama in a commitment to her community and the local workforce.  She pursued her designs with the intent to resurrect the community she came from. Her goals were to go home to not only design her success but redesign the local economy.  She wanted to bring jobs and traffic to her little corner of the world. She wanted people to understand the talent that should be revealed and enjoyed in that little corner of the world. Her sense of hospitality and business acumen invited her customers and admirers to experience the joy of southern community, food and talent.

Her series of books seem to be the reflection of her philosophy and they pave the way for the connoisseurs of her little corner of the world’s hospitality and rich heritage. Visit her journal to find out how she has engineered that road.

I have even purchased her Crafty class because it might actually get me to go beyond wistfully reading her books and pondering what I could do with her techniques and ideas.  

Of course, it all started with the fabric for me. I find her designs fascinating. I love the use of pattern and color contrast.

However, that commitment to others, creative problem solving, resiliency and unapologetic commitment to live life as she has defined makes me want to sit down over a glass of sweet tea for a chat about anything and everything. Just to find out how she thinks.

She epitomizes the saying, “When you get to the top throw a ladder down for someone else.”

For a little more insight and some fascinating textile ideas visit:

Alabama Chanin Journal: Lauching Alabama Studiio Sewing Patterns

How Your Great-Grandmother's Hobby Is Transforming One Alabama Town

Oh How Pinteresting; Natalie Chanin: Founder of Alabama Chanin Interview
Alabama Chanin Website 

Who Says There Is No Such Thing as a Free Lunch?

Collette's Free Hem Guide

This is not your ordinary give away. I would use this free guide if I were teaching a class on hems. It is a must have for any new or developing sewists. The layout is logical and succinct in an attractive format. Count ‘em, 111 pages of detailed teaching with large color photos. I love the chart on page 11. It lists the type of garments then provides the hem allowance needed. The part I really love is the type of hems cross referenced with the garments in the form of a checklist grid. It guides the reader to the section that is most appropriate for their project in one glance.

Topics covered:

Preparation – choose you hem, level the hem, reduce bulk, stabilizers

Edge Finish – serged, zigzag or mock overlock, turned under, bias tape, hem tape, lace hem tape

Hand Stitched Hems – catch stitch, blind stitch, slip stitch, fell stitch, hand rolled

Machine Hems – turned, blind, machine rolled, baby, faced, fringed

Special Techniques – twin needle, serger rolled, banded, mitered

The sewing instructors from my past would approve of this book. That is the ultimate recommendation. They are not an easy group to please when it comes to “proper” technique.

Download this little gem at: http://www.colettesewing.com/colette-guide-to-sewing-hems

Here Are My New Vogue Picks

My Heart Always Pitter Patters When New Patterns are Released

That is the Madness Part of Modiste

Vogue just announced their holiday collection. There are several designer dresses that if my waist curved in just a bit more... Take a look at them. The necklines and design details just make me want to sew them. Alas, it is not to be.

However, take a look at the ones that jumped onto my "consider me" list.

 

 Vogue 1430

Sandra Betzina intends this to be a blouse but I see it as a jacket in a light weight wool with texture. Line it with a bright heavy lining so if it swings open there is a flash of color. Add a big button layered with beads or smaller buttons then something dangling. I also see a big sweater closure with the hoop and pick as an alternative. Picture wearing that on a fall day, with colorful leaves in the sunshine, as you walk in a park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vogue 1429

Sandra Betzina offers a dress or a top with 1429. I think it is a killer dress, but for myself I will make the top. It is a t-shirt that doesn't look like a t-shirt. Comfort with unique design. I like the contrasting fabric. I am always sucker for a princess neckline. Let's face it I am always intrigued by an interesting neckline. They get me every time. I am mentally scanning my shelf burdened with knits to pick two fabrics. I like the dark with a pattern. Thanks to the good old Canvasbacks days I have several combos to choose from.

Vogue 9052

This is a good example of color blocking that isn't predictable and boring. Add a little drape to it and it doesn't look.... so blocky. The seaming in this is interesting enough it will work well in "worn" rayon knit with top stitching at the seams. Since I am not 6 feet tall I see a a thinner silhouette on the bottom. I would look like a big pile of fabric if I tried the whole look. I can see myself wearing this to a more informal meeting at work. I think it would make a statement. Forget view C. It is a remade big shouldered look from the 80's that isn't sufficiently updated. Although, it might work in a sheer fabric.

Vogue 9070

I have mixed feelings about this Marci Tilton jacket. I like the lines and design details, but there seems to be something a little off in the pic. It seems to pull at the high waist, but I wonder if they clipped it in back to create a snugger fit. Whatever it is, it makes this close to 6' skinny model look less than skinny. The same appearance doesn't present itself in the print version.  I like the neckline/collar (there is that neckline thing again) and the pockets. I don't know if I would want to make it as an rain coat or in the coat weight fabric of the alternative view. It would fit well over fall jackets and clothes on those nasty blustery rainy fall days.

Pukey Green Top Alert - Don’t Let the Pattern Picture Deter You

 McCalls 6607

Buddy just had to be close to me.

You looked at the pictures and probably said, “What, another summer top? Hasn’t anyone told this woman it is the beginning of October?” The temperatures definitely have communicated that fact. However, this top can easily be made for colder temps with heavier fabric so take a look at it for your fall and winter wardrobe.

Don’t let the pattern envelope pictures discourage you. Ignore the pukey green version with poor drape that is combined with other interesting colors choices. Don’t let the other crushed velvet disco version do that either. Wait, the pukey green fabric is making an appearance as leggings peeking out from under the disco sheen in this pic. What was McCalls thinking? Don’t follow their example. In fact. channel your creativity towards this pattern. Combine it with some interesting fabric and it creates a unique, somewhat artistic, garment.

Some things to think about before you start.

This pattern is well drafted and goes together easily. The deep cowl fits into the opening with no excess ease. The front neckline and armscye is very low. You need to think about what you will be wearing under this as you select fabric.

 

Why this fabric was chosen.

Ignore the recommendation for stretch knits. It totally isn't necessary. I went to my treasure trove of Canvasbacks fabrics (defunct high end women's sportswear manufacturer) and found this printed polyester lace that I had left aging in the fabric collection. I was waiting for a pattern as unique as the fabric. The extreme drape of this fabric helps this be a flattering garment. There is a fair amount of volume in the top so it needs to hang close to the body to be flattering. The large cowl also needs the same qualities to hang in an attractive loop.

This is actually a floral print.

 

Choosing the Size

I chose the size in this pattern based upon the bust measurement. I find that when a garment does not skim the body it helps to have it fit closely in the bust for it to be flattering on me. I choose the bust because of my somewhat round body type. I would use the same guideline for selecting any size in this pattern for other body types due to the “swing” style of the garment. Fitting it to the bust suggests an illusion of a body silhouette somewhere in a flowing garment.

 

Construction Tips & Techniques

Construction of this garment is quite easy even with the more challenging fabric I chose. The following construction techniques were used when assembling this pattern:

• The open areas in the lace must be considered when deciding on seam width and finish. 
• All the side, shoulder and cowl seams are trimmed to ¼” and zig zagged together to help prevent them from showing on the outside though the lace. 
• I used a somewhat narrow (2) shorter (2) zig zag stitch to construct the entire garment. This helps compensate for all the open areas and secures the fabric where ever the textile occurs.
• It is imperative to stabilize the shoulders with seam binding, twill tape or another highly stable material so it doesn’t stretch out of shape or tear in this high stress area. There is a great deal of fabric hanging from these narrow shoulder seams that, when combined with the movement of the drape, could distort this area of the garment.
• The armscye and hem edges are turned 1/8” widths twice then zig zagged.

 

Level of skill needed for success.

This garment went together quickly and easily even with this somewhat more complex fabric. Consequently, I recommend this pattern for beginners, if they use a little more stable fabric, to expert sewists.

 

More ideas for this pattern.

I am definitely going to make this pattern again. My next one will be in a sweater knit for winter. I have limited experience with sweater knits so it will be an interesting skill builder for me.

However, my imagination runs a little wild with this one. I can see a contrasting fabric on the cowl. There is so much potential for reverse applique, trims, embroidery and fabric manipulation. Use view A and take in the sides. Instead of a swing style with high volume you would have something closer to the body for those who desire that silhouette. Try this one out and post your link to your version.

Links:

Pattern envelope:

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6607-products-23000.php?page_id=96

Pattern  black line drawing: