Sewing Was Stitched To My Soul

Thread, fabric, patterns, pins, sharp scissors and buttons have comprised the fundamental elements of my life. My earliest memories involve something sewing related. My sister, who is 8 years older than me, was always sewing something. My Aunt Helen had the typical fabric obsessed sewing house. Piles of fabric and projects. I loved the pajamas she would make for us. The mittens she knitted for us were my favorites throughout my life. My Mom was a good sewist. She mended things and was good at fitting. She really didn't like to sew all that much but she was good at technical assistance. 

I absolutely adored her button box and was fascinated by the archival quality of the buttons. Colors, ages, shapes and leftovers from so many garments or projects. I have the significant ones in a tin box just like she kept them in. Sifting through them was a tactile experience filled with imagination and family history. I would look until I found my favorites, the huge glass one that I imagined was impressive diamond, and of course the ones that I could repeatedly ask about where they came from so I could hear the story again.

One of the stories that was told over and over was how my sister started sewing by making doll clothes. She just cut them out and hand stitched them together. It seemed like a good idea to me. 

When I had mastered good scissor cutting I set out to bring those ideas in my head to life. There were always scraps of fabric, wooden spools of extra thread and lots of trim around to use. 

We, who sew, under estimate the wonderful transferable skills that we have learned from sewing. Here is where my inner teacher kicks into gear. I recall that it was a lesson about turning a 2 dimensional media into something that would fit a 3 dimensional object. It was also a trial run in scale and proportion. My stitches were too far apart and gaped. It was a definite fundamental lesson in spatial skills, pattern drafting and construction. In other words, it was a great learning experience. It was a mess. That doll didn't care she wore it anyway. 

To be continued...

Modiste Has Been Bad, Very Bad: Color Theory Made Me Do it

I saw the picture of the fabric.  It sucked me in like a visual Tsunami pulling back out to sea. All common sense, all firm resolve, all monetary judgement just gone. What can I say? Thank goodness for monetary Christmas gifts? I didn't know my mother-in-law was such an enabler until I  thought of that check. I always suspected Marci Tilton was one you had to watch out for. Enough shock and awe. On to the good stuff.

I have a fascination with a mixture of cool icy blues and gold or earth tones. Maybe it is because my coloring doesn't allow for a lot of warm color without being asked if I need a ride to urgent care. Maybe it is living in the north and it symbolizes a tiny hope for warmth. More simply, it is my love of contrast and color. I am not normally a large print person, but I think, given the description, this can be pieced in a way to create a really interesting overall garment. The pattern changes near the selvedges. Did I mention it is a rayon knit? Think soft, drape and movement.

And then of course, that was so interesting, I had to go back and click on the next page because there could be something just waiting there even more interesting.

I have long had a love affair with the complementary color scheme. I like the visual bounce it produces in the brain. High interest. Envision it this way. Imagine you are looking at a color wheel. Look at two colors directly across from one another. It is like a visual tennis match. Your eyes won't rest on one much longer than the other. The brain likes complementary color schemes. They are interesting.

How could you expect me to resist this given that love affair? One of the reasons I loved the first Nike "Just Do It!" campaign was because of this color combination. Complementary color scheme, blue and orange and  IT IS A JAPANESE COTTON PRINT!!!!  That combination could drive me to some kind of Twelve Step Program if I really had a problem....

Now add a graphic print, little squares, squiggly lines, motifs, and a variety of shapes. It was sold before that temptress even put it up on the Internet. I am already placing them on a blouse in my brain for the most impact and small visual surprises.

I keep myself away from Internet fabric sites for just this reason. I have ordered some on line but haven't been quite satisfied when I received it. Now, reinforced with better graphics on my Ipad and confidence in Marci Tilton's level of taste, it either gave me the confidence or made me jump right into the old insanity pool to order fabric, in a shorter amount of time, than any Internet order I have ever placed.

A Season for Every Activity

These are not inspirational projects. They really aren't even good pieces of work but the idea is. Try something new or rediscover something. It changes the way you think about your other creative endeavors.

In a time long long ago I used to sew a lot and do a lot arts and crafts. I have lost track of that side of myself. Kind of  in line with that whole "There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens." (Ecclesiastes 3) Life has been full but things change. Change has always been my friend.

Time to get back to that compelling part of my brain. The local independent art supply store offered free art product demos during December. It is a smart idea. People walk in, an artist demonstrates products, people sit down and use the products for free to create something to take home. They then of course, like any creatively obsessed person, buy the products. What a great way to connect to those activities I enjoyed, meet nice people who are like minded, take a break from the holiday speed race and enjoy the big idea of the holiday.  

I learned a few things. Muscle memory has left the house. See that little "Joy" project. My brain would know exactly what to do then my hand would wander from its trajectory. 20 years ago I would have whipped that puppy out and it would have looked good. Fluidity of thought is maintained with practice. Keep up with new products and experiment with them. Projects are grown in layers. Try something, change it, add something. The artist reminded me of that one. When I get out of my "thinking" brain and into my "creating" brain I relax, time slows down a bit and I have to remind myself there is an end to a project. If I don't identify where my end is I can get a bit obsessed and frustrated. 

It was fun to revisit my design knowledge and color theory even if poorly executed. This was a fun way to celebrate the holidays. The practice and execution of technical skills is what communicates the essence of an idea. I realized instead of just focusing on sewing I need to focus on my creativity and the rest will come.

*****************

List of projects and products starting with "JOY" and going clockwise:
Versals - permanent fine pt marker, Twinkling Watercolors applied with water pen/brush
Pan Pastels - Pan Pastels applied with Sofft sponges/tools, mine is a really poor example of what these can do.
12" Round Canvas - covered with brush felt pens and poster pens
Paper Angel - patterned template colored with Pentel Slicci .8 gel pen - they flow and fill more consistently than any I have used
 Artist Trading Cards - misc. graphics and stickers or brush felt pens

Cleaning up Scraps

It has been a long time since I have been as productive creatively as I want. There always seems to be something that keeps me from starting. I have come to think of them as "scraps of distraction."  During the past year I have identified many scraps of distraction that contribute to this inertia. A considerable amount of time has been spent identifying and discarding those scraps.

Sewists are experts on scraps.There are always scraps left over from sewing projects. Like any other piece of textile, I am hesitant to get rid of them. There just might be a use for them. They may make a great detail on another garment. It is the old, I might be able to use this again imagination.

Scraps of distraction really have no positive influence. I have discovered they just need to be dealt with and discarded. There are no good reasons to hold on to them.

During this year I have:

• Worked hard at getting rid of the projects around the house that I neglect. I tend to think I can't sew until I get them done. 
• Spent time organizing things so the stuff I hate to do can be accomplished efficiently. 
• Reflected on my value system in relation to productivity and the origins of those frameworks for thinking. It revealed erroneous patterns of behavior and thinking in relation to the management of productivity They were not based in a pragmatic management system for the completion of tasks but some past perception that was proclaimed fact by someone else. 
• Identified how much time I spend doing things. Knowing how much time it really takes to do things allows me to slot them into available minutes rather than thinking I can't do it now. 
• Realized that in essence, if it doesn't help me, deal with it, get rid of it and move on. 

Clearing scraps of distraction from the creative path gives me space to do what I really want to do.

Do you have scraps of distraction? What are they? Where are they left over from?

The Headless Pattern Review

Design and Sew - The Big Easy

What better kind of review to launch on Halloween weekend than one with a headless person that appears to be of Ghostbuster StaPuff Marshmallow Man proportions? I tried hard to update the picture for this review but the waning days of autumn light just wasn’t bright enough to be able to see detail. Time to revert back to a headless pic. I probably should have held a jack-o-lantern in my hand but it seemed a bit of overkill. Regardless, it is getting cool outside so it is time to turn to an old standby, The Big Easy by Design and Sew.  

 

Description

This unlined loose fitting jacket has a large, soft collar that frames the face and can be fastened in a variety of ways. The funnel-like collar, View C, stands away from the neck and buttons on the center front. This jacket has rows of topstitching, raglan sleeves that roll up, a choice of pockets and only 3 main pieces. I made a version similar to view B.

Why this fabric was chosen.

I like the neck treatment and the easy design of the pattern. I wanted to make this out of wool instead of fleece. Lois Ericson’s patterns can be a bit unpredictable at times so I limited myself to something that I already had in my stash. I went on my search for a wool that was big enough piece that would lend itself to fraying for fringed edges. I choose a wonderful piece of checked lightweight wool with a lot of drape and body. This complements the neck design especially well. The combination of the wool with the cuddly neckline makes it warm enough to be worn as a fall coat.

Some things to think about before you start.

Designing the closure was a real process for this coat. The single layer of fabric in the front will not support buttonholes adequately. I went on a search for a piece of red suede like fabric that could be used as a band with a loop button closure. Nothing matched. I checked a local leather store but everything was too heavy and would have weighted the front of the coat. I thought about ties but rejected that. It went on and on. What did I decide on finally? Nothing. Sometimes less is more. A big chunky pin I have looks great If I want to close it. Most of the time I just let it hang loose. The quality of the fabric makes this an attractive alternative. I used the roll up cuff sleeve finish when I first made it. However, the wool kept catching on itself and the cuff would progressively turn up more and more. I lopped off a large amount and hemmed it. The sleeves are very long! The sleeves are quite tapered at this point, so a small tuck in the sleeve was unavoidable near the seam line. I “cheated” and make a pleat in the sleeve to make it a more flattering width, hides the tuck, and sewed on one for the buttons I bought for my original closure ideas. It covers the mistake and I like the finished look of the sleeve. The fabric I chose frayed easily so fringing the edges was quick. I did have to redraft the collar slightly so the top edge remained on the cross grain along its entire width. After the garment was entirely constructed I straightened all the edges if they weren't already. I ended all seams short of the edge where the fringe would begin. If the seam went to the edge it would not unravel through the seam. I sewed a narrow short zig-zag around the edges at the depth I wanted the fringe to extend, 1/4", then started gently pulling threads. It worked quite well and stayed even all the way around.

Choosing the size.

I always choose the size of Design and Sew patterns by the flat pattern measurements and the amount of ease I want. ! I thoroughly checked the pattern pieces against a loose jacket that I already own also. Never go by the pattern measurement and recommendation for this pattern line. Raglan sleeve’s depth is difficult to predict based upon measurements but I was able to determine that I needed to cut a smaller size in the arm area. In the end it was still way to low. I didn’t think it was as flattering as it could be so I increased seam depth at the underarm to 2 ¼”. That improved it a lot. The rest was fine.

Construction Tips & Techniques

The instructions were quite adequate for the pattern. This isn’t always one of Design & Sew’s strengths so I was delightfully surprised. The collar is part of the front body of the jacket and then is sewn to the back with a squared seam insertion. The instructions for this process are good but study them well before your start. The back collar seam needs to be sewn opposite of the rest so the unfinished part is hidden. That area of construction is confusing but easy once you have the directions mastered. Make sure you stay stitch the corner before sewing. You may also want to use a small piece of fusible interfacing in the area if your fabric ravels excessively. I edge stitched along the collar seam to relieve some of the stress in that area. I used seam tape to bind the edges in the collar and sleeve area. It has been a long time since I have bound seams and I discovered the quality of seam tape today is way too stiff to lay well. A tailor I know recommended Dritz’ Seams Great as an alternative that I will use next time. It is clear and extremely flexible. I used flat felt seams everywhere else on the jacket since the drape of the jacket often allows the inside to be visible. I trimmed the excess part of the seam where the fringe would be so I maintained a single layer all the way around.

Level of skill needed.

The pattern itself isn’t difficult to construct. However, the fitting and adjustments needed would call for someone who is adept at alterations or pattern modification.

Satisfaction with the project and more ideas for this pattern.

My fabric didn’t lend itself to looking exactly like the pattern illustration but the picture accurately depicts the garment and its fullness. I like the graceful way the garment drapes and the versatile neckline. It is not available from most commercial pattern site but may be available through resale. I questioned rather I should put this up here. However, I think the fitting issues, fabric selection and design process used in this pattern is pertinent similar patterns.

This would be a good pattern for hand woven fabric. It definitely showcases the fabric used in construction. I may sew a different version of the pattern at a later date. The advantage of this pattern is it will assume the look of whatever fabric used and each one could be unique.  Using fleece or a boucle’ would make this a warm cuddly casual coat for those cool fall days.

It would be a good palette for surface embellishment. I saw a wonderful jacket like this in a store today. The front was made out of this elaborately yarn embroidered wool with drape similar to this garment. The sleeves and back were made of a subtle patterned contrasting fabric. I just wanted to put it on and snuggle up it.

Alabama Chanin New Book with Nod to the Past

Love the Skill, Love the Look, Love the Values

What makes a person interesting for you?  I find myself asking this as I am excited to learn Natalie  is releasing another book, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns.  I wanted to tell all of you about this. Then I asked myself, “Why her?” Why do I sit up and take notice when I see her name or designs? I like following her. I like her strong independence. I like finding out what she is up to. I want to find out what she is thinking. My interest lies in her past success, her departure from her own brand, but mostly what she did with that challenge.  I like that she is someone who has incredible inherent talent with textiles but wants to pass her convictions, skills and design insight on to others. Her ego doesn’t make her want to be exclusive but inclusive.  She seems to operate from a platform of “do no harm” and help people flourish.

Chanin of Alabama Chanin,

Unlike almost every other designer, when she sought success, she left New York to return home to rural Alabama. She departed from her original Project Alabama in a commitment to her community and the local workforce.  She pursued her designs with the intent to resurrect the community she came from. Her goals were to go home to not only design her success but redesign the local economy.  She wanted to bring jobs and traffic to her little corner of the world. She wanted people to understand the talent that should be revealed and enjoyed in that little corner of the world. Her sense of hospitality and business acumen invited her customers and admirers to experience the joy of southern community, food and talent.

Her series of books seem to be the reflection of her philosophy and they pave the way for the connoisseurs of her little corner of the world’s hospitality and rich heritage. Visit her journal to find out how she has engineered that road.

I have even purchased her Crafty class because it might actually get me to go beyond wistfully reading her books and pondering what I could do with her techniques and ideas.  

Of course, it all started with the fabric for me. I find her designs fascinating. I love the use of pattern and color contrast.

However, that commitment to others, creative problem solving, resiliency and unapologetic commitment to live life as she has defined makes me want to sit down over a glass of sweet tea for a chat about anything and everything. Just to find out how she thinks.

She epitomizes the saying, “When you get to the top throw a ladder down for someone else.”

For a little more insight and some fascinating textile ideas visit:

Alabama Chanin Journal: Lauching Alabama Studiio Sewing Patterns

How Your Great-Grandmother's Hobby Is Transforming One Alabama Town

Oh How Pinteresting; Natalie Chanin: Founder of Alabama Chanin Interview
Alabama Chanin Website 

Who Says There Is No Such Thing as a Free Lunch?

Collette's Free Hem Guide

This is not your ordinary give away. I would use this free guide if I were teaching a class on hems. It is a must have for any new or developing sewists. The layout is logical and succinct in an attractive format. Count ‘em, 111 pages of detailed teaching with large color photos. I love the chart on page 11. It lists the type of garments then provides the hem allowance needed. The part I really love is the type of hems cross referenced with the garments in the form of a checklist grid. It guides the reader to the section that is most appropriate for their project in one glance.

Topics covered:

Preparation – choose you hem, level the hem, reduce bulk, stabilizers

Edge Finish – serged, zigzag or mock overlock, turned under, bias tape, hem tape, lace hem tape

Hand Stitched Hems – catch stitch, blind stitch, slip stitch, fell stitch, hand rolled

Machine Hems – turned, blind, machine rolled, baby, faced, fringed

Special Techniques – twin needle, serger rolled, banded, mitered

The sewing instructors from my past would approve of this book. That is the ultimate recommendation. They are not an easy group to please when it comes to “proper” technique.

Download this little gem at: http://www.colettesewing.com/colette-guide-to-sewing-hems