Cleaning up Scraps

It has been a long time since I have been as productive creatively as I want. There always seems to be something that keeps me from starting. I have come to think of them as "scraps of distraction."  During the past year I have identified many scraps of distraction that contribute to this inertia. A considerable amount of time has been spent identifying and discarding those scraps.

Sewists are experts on scraps.There are always scraps left over from sewing projects. Like any other piece of textile, I am hesitant to get rid of them. There just might be a use for them. They may make a great detail on another garment. It is the old, I might be able to use this again imagination.

Scraps of distraction really have no positive influence. I have discovered they just need to be dealt with and discarded. There are no good reasons to hold on to them.

During this year I have:

• Worked hard at getting rid of the projects around the house that I neglect. I tend to think I can't sew until I get them done. 
• Spent time organizing things so the stuff I hate to do can be accomplished efficiently. 
• Reflected on my value system in relation to productivity and the origins of those frameworks for thinking. It revealed erroneous patterns of behavior and thinking in relation to the management of productivity They were not based in a pragmatic management system for the completion of tasks but some past perception that was proclaimed fact by someone else. 
• Identified how much time I spend doing things. Knowing how much time it really takes to do things allows me to slot them into available minutes rather than thinking I can't do it now. 
• Realized that in essence, if it doesn't help me, deal with it, get rid of it and move on. 

Clearing scraps of distraction from the creative path gives me space to do what I really want to do.

Do you have scraps of distraction? What are they? Where are they left over from?

The Headless Pattern Review

Design and Sew - The Big Easy

What better kind of review to launch on Halloween weekend than one with a headless person that appears to be of Ghostbuster StaPuff Marshmallow Man proportions? I tried hard to update the picture for this review but the waning days of autumn light just wasn’t bright enough to be able to see detail. Time to revert back to a headless pic. I probably should have held a jack-o-lantern in my hand but it seemed a bit of overkill. Regardless, it is getting cool outside so it is time to turn to an old standby, The Big Easy by Design and Sew.  

 

Description

This unlined loose fitting jacket has a large, soft collar that frames the face and can be fastened in a variety of ways. The funnel-like collar, View C, stands away from the neck and buttons on the center front. This jacket has rows of topstitching, raglan sleeves that roll up, a choice of pockets and only 3 main pieces. I made a version similar to view B.

Why this fabric was chosen.

I like the neck treatment and the easy design of the pattern. I wanted to make this out of wool instead of fleece. Lois Ericson’s patterns can be a bit unpredictable at times so I limited myself to something that I already had in my stash. I went on my search for a wool that was big enough piece that would lend itself to fraying for fringed edges. I choose a wonderful piece of checked lightweight wool with a lot of drape and body. This complements the neck design especially well. The combination of the wool with the cuddly neckline makes it warm enough to be worn as a fall coat.

Some things to think about before you start.

Designing the closure was a real process for this coat. The single layer of fabric in the front will not support buttonholes adequately. I went on a search for a piece of red suede like fabric that could be used as a band with a loop button closure. Nothing matched. I checked a local leather store but everything was too heavy and would have weighted the front of the coat. I thought about ties but rejected that. It went on and on. What did I decide on finally? Nothing. Sometimes less is more. A big chunky pin I have looks great If I want to close it. Most of the time I just let it hang loose. The quality of the fabric makes this an attractive alternative. I used the roll up cuff sleeve finish when I first made it. However, the wool kept catching on itself and the cuff would progressively turn up more and more. I lopped off a large amount and hemmed it. The sleeves are very long! The sleeves are quite tapered at this point, so a small tuck in the sleeve was unavoidable near the seam line. I “cheated” and make a pleat in the sleeve to make it a more flattering width, hides the tuck, and sewed on one for the buttons I bought for my original closure ideas. It covers the mistake and I like the finished look of the sleeve. The fabric I chose frayed easily so fringing the edges was quick. I did have to redraft the collar slightly so the top edge remained on the cross grain along its entire width. After the garment was entirely constructed I straightened all the edges if they weren't already. I ended all seams short of the edge where the fringe would begin. If the seam went to the edge it would not unravel through the seam. I sewed a narrow short zig-zag around the edges at the depth I wanted the fringe to extend, 1/4", then started gently pulling threads. It worked quite well and stayed even all the way around.

Choosing the size.

I always choose the size of Design and Sew patterns by the flat pattern measurements and the amount of ease I want. ! I thoroughly checked the pattern pieces against a loose jacket that I already own also. Never go by the pattern measurement and recommendation for this pattern line. Raglan sleeve’s depth is difficult to predict based upon measurements but I was able to determine that I needed to cut a smaller size in the arm area. In the end it was still way to low. I didn’t think it was as flattering as it could be so I increased seam depth at the underarm to 2 ¼”. That improved it a lot. The rest was fine.

Construction Tips & Techniques

The instructions were quite adequate for the pattern. This isn’t always one of Design & Sew’s strengths so I was delightfully surprised. The collar is part of the front body of the jacket and then is sewn to the back with a squared seam insertion. The instructions for this process are good but study them well before your start. The back collar seam needs to be sewn opposite of the rest so the unfinished part is hidden. That area of construction is confusing but easy once you have the directions mastered. Make sure you stay stitch the corner before sewing. You may also want to use a small piece of fusible interfacing in the area if your fabric ravels excessively. I edge stitched along the collar seam to relieve some of the stress in that area. I used seam tape to bind the edges in the collar and sleeve area. It has been a long time since I have bound seams and I discovered the quality of seam tape today is way too stiff to lay well. A tailor I know recommended Dritz’ Seams Great as an alternative that I will use next time. It is clear and extremely flexible. I used flat felt seams everywhere else on the jacket since the drape of the jacket often allows the inside to be visible. I trimmed the excess part of the seam where the fringe would be so I maintained a single layer all the way around.

Level of skill needed.

The pattern itself isn’t difficult to construct. However, the fitting and adjustments needed would call for someone who is adept at alterations or pattern modification.

Satisfaction with the project and more ideas for this pattern.

My fabric didn’t lend itself to looking exactly like the pattern illustration but the picture accurately depicts the garment and its fullness. I like the graceful way the garment drapes and the versatile neckline. It is not available from most commercial pattern site but may be available through resale. I questioned rather I should put this up here. However, I think the fitting issues, fabric selection and design process used in this pattern is pertinent similar patterns.

This would be a good pattern for hand woven fabric. It definitely showcases the fabric used in construction. I may sew a different version of the pattern at a later date. The advantage of this pattern is it will assume the look of whatever fabric used and each one could be unique.  Using fleece or a boucle’ would make this a warm cuddly casual coat for those cool fall days.

It would be a good palette for surface embellishment. I saw a wonderful jacket like this in a store today. The front was made out of this elaborately yarn embroidered wool with drape similar to this garment. The sleeves and back were made of a subtle patterned contrasting fabric. I just wanted to put it on and snuggle up it.

Alabama Chanin New Book with Nod to the Past

Love the Skill, Love the Look, Love the Values

What makes a person interesting for you?  I find myself asking this as I am excited to learn Natalie  is releasing another book, Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns.  I wanted to tell all of you about this. Then I asked myself, “Why her?” Why do I sit up and take notice when I see her name or designs? I like following her. I like her strong independence. I like finding out what she is up to. I want to find out what she is thinking. My interest lies in her past success, her departure from her own brand, but mostly what she did with that challenge.  I like that she is someone who has incredible inherent talent with textiles but wants to pass her convictions, skills and design insight on to others. Her ego doesn’t make her want to be exclusive but inclusive.  She seems to operate from a platform of “do no harm” and help people flourish.

Chanin of Alabama Chanin,

Unlike almost every other designer, when she sought success, she left New York to return home to rural Alabama. She departed from her original Project Alabama in a commitment to her community and the local workforce.  She pursued her designs with the intent to resurrect the community she came from. Her goals were to go home to not only design her success but redesign the local economy.  She wanted to bring jobs and traffic to her little corner of the world. She wanted people to understand the talent that should be revealed and enjoyed in that little corner of the world. Her sense of hospitality and business acumen invited her customers and admirers to experience the joy of southern community, food and talent.

Her series of books seem to be the reflection of her philosophy and they pave the way for the connoisseurs of her little corner of the world’s hospitality and rich heritage. Visit her journal to find out how she has engineered that road.

I have even purchased her Crafty class because it might actually get me to go beyond wistfully reading her books and pondering what I could do with her techniques and ideas.  

Of course, it all started with the fabric for me. I find her designs fascinating. I love the use of pattern and color contrast.

However, that commitment to others, creative problem solving, resiliency and unapologetic commitment to live life as she has defined makes me want to sit down over a glass of sweet tea for a chat about anything and everything. Just to find out how she thinks.

She epitomizes the saying, “When you get to the top throw a ladder down for someone else.”

For a little more insight and some fascinating textile ideas visit:

Alabama Chanin Journal: Lauching Alabama Studiio Sewing Patterns

How Your Great-Grandmother's Hobby Is Transforming One Alabama Town

Oh How Pinteresting; Natalie Chanin: Founder of Alabama Chanin Interview
Alabama Chanin Website 

Who Says There Is No Such Thing as a Free Lunch?

Collette's Free Hem Guide

This is not your ordinary give away. I would use this free guide if I were teaching a class on hems. It is a must have for any new or developing sewists. The layout is logical and succinct in an attractive format. Count ‘em, 111 pages of detailed teaching with large color photos. I love the chart on page 11. It lists the type of garments then provides the hem allowance needed. The part I really love is the type of hems cross referenced with the garments in the form of a checklist grid. It guides the reader to the section that is most appropriate for their project in one glance.

Topics covered:

Preparation – choose you hem, level the hem, reduce bulk, stabilizers

Edge Finish – serged, zigzag or mock overlock, turned under, bias tape, hem tape, lace hem tape

Hand Stitched Hems – catch stitch, blind stitch, slip stitch, fell stitch, hand rolled

Machine Hems – turned, blind, machine rolled, baby, faced, fringed

Special Techniques – twin needle, serger rolled, banded, mitered

The sewing instructors from my past would approve of this book. That is the ultimate recommendation. They are not an easy group to please when it comes to “proper” technique.

Download this little gem at: http://www.colettesewing.com/colette-guide-to-sewing-hems

Here Are My New Vogue Picks

My Heart Always Pitter Patters When New Patterns are Released

That is the Madness Part of Modiste

Vogue just announced their holiday collection. There are several designer dresses that if my waist curved in just a bit more... Take a look at them. The necklines and design details just make me want to sew them. Alas, it is not to be.

However, take a look at the ones that jumped onto my "consider me" list.

 

 Vogue 1430

Sandra Betzina intends this to be a blouse but I see it as a jacket in a light weight wool with texture. Line it with a bright heavy lining so if it swings open there is a flash of color. Add a big button layered with beads or smaller buttons then something dangling. I also see a big sweater closure with the hoop and pick as an alternative. Picture wearing that on a fall day, with colorful leaves in the sunshine, as you walk in a park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vogue 1429

Sandra Betzina offers a dress or a top with 1429. I think it is a killer dress, but for myself I will make the top. It is a t-shirt that doesn't look like a t-shirt. Comfort with unique design. I like the contrasting fabric. I am always sucker for a princess neckline. Let's face it I am always intrigued by an interesting neckline. They get me every time. I am mentally scanning my shelf burdened with knits to pick two fabrics. I like the dark with a pattern. Thanks to the good old Canvasbacks days I have several combos to choose from.

Vogue 9052

This is a good example of color blocking that isn't predictable and boring. Add a little drape to it and it doesn't look.... so blocky. The seaming in this is interesting enough it will work well in "worn" rayon knit with top stitching at the seams. Since I am not 6 feet tall I see a a thinner silhouette on the bottom. I would look like a big pile of fabric if I tried the whole look. I can see myself wearing this to a more informal meeting at work. I think it would make a statement. Forget view C. It is a remade big shouldered look from the 80's that isn't sufficiently updated. Although, it might work in a sheer fabric.

Vogue 9070

I have mixed feelings about this Marci Tilton jacket. I like the lines and design details, but there seems to be something a little off in the pic. It seems to pull at the high waist, but I wonder if they clipped it in back to create a snugger fit. Whatever it is, it makes this close to 6' skinny model look less than skinny. The same appearance doesn't present itself in the print version.  I like the neckline/collar (there is that neckline thing again) and the pockets. I don't know if I would want to make it as an rain coat or in the coat weight fabric of the alternative view. It would fit well over fall jackets and clothes on those nasty blustery rainy fall days.

Pukey Green Top Alert - Don’t Let the Pattern Picture Deter You

 McCalls 6607

Buddy just had to be close to me.

You looked at the pictures and probably said, “What, another summer top? Hasn’t anyone told this woman it is the beginning of October?” The temperatures definitely have communicated that fact. However, this top can easily be made for colder temps with heavier fabric so take a look at it for your fall and winter wardrobe.

Don’t let the pattern envelope pictures discourage you. Ignore the pukey green version with poor drape that is combined with other interesting colors choices. Don’t let the other crushed velvet disco version do that either. Wait, the pukey green fabric is making an appearance as leggings peeking out from under the disco sheen in this pic. What was McCalls thinking? Don’t follow their example. In fact. channel your creativity towards this pattern. Combine it with some interesting fabric and it creates a unique, somewhat artistic, garment.

Some things to think about before you start.

This pattern is well drafted and goes together easily. The deep cowl fits into the opening with no excess ease. The front neckline and armscye is very low. You need to think about what you will be wearing under this as you select fabric.

 

Why this fabric was chosen.

Ignore the recommendation for stretch knits. It totally isn't necessary. I went to my treasure trove of Canvasbacks fabrics (defunct high end women's sportswear manufacturer) and found this printed polyester lace that I had left aging in the fabric collection. I was waiting for a pattern as unique as the fabric. The extreme drape of this fabric helps this be a flattering garment. There is a fair amount of volume in the top so it needs to hang close to the body to be flattering. The large cowl also needs the same qualities to hang in an attractive loop.

This is actually a floral print.

 

Choosing the Size

I chose the size in this pattern based upon the bust measurement. I find that when a garment does not skim the body it helps to have it fit closely in the bust for it to be flattering on me. I choose the bust because of my somewhat round body type. I would use the same guideline for selecting any size in this pattern for other body types due to the “swing” style of the garment. Fitting it to the bust suggests an illusion of a body silhouette somewhere in a flowing garment.

 

Construction Tips & Techniques

Construction of this garment is quite easy even with the more challenging fabric I chose. The following construction techniques were used when assembling this pattern:

• The open areas in the lace must be considered when deciding on seam width and finish. 
• All the side, shoulder and cowl seams are trimmed to ¼” and zig zagged together to help prevent them from showing on the outside though the lace. 
• I used a somewhat narrow (2) shorter (2) zig zag stitch to construct the entire garment. This helps compensate for all the open areas and secures the fabric where ever the textile occurs.
• It is imperative to stabilize the shoulders with seam binding, twill tape or another highly stable material so it doesn’t stretch out of shape or tear in this high stress area. There is a great deal of fabric hanging from these narrow shoulder seams that, when combined with the movement of the drape, could distort this area of the garment.
• The armscye and hem edges are turned 1/8” widths twice then zig zagged.

 

Level of skill needed for success.

This garment went together quickly and easily even with this somewhat more complex fabric. Consequently, I recommend this pattern for beginners, if they use a little more stable fabric, to expert sewists.

 

More ideas for this pattern.

I am definitely going to make this pattern again. My next one will be in a sweater knit for winter. I have limited experience with sweater knits so it will be an interesting skill builder for me.

However, my imagination runs a little wild with this one. I can see a contrasting fabric on the cowl. There is so much potential for reverse applique, trims, embroidery and fabric manipulation. Use view A and take in the sides. Instead of a swing style with high volume you would have something closer to the body for those who desire that silhouette. Try this one out and post your link to your version.

Links:

Pattern envelope:

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6607-products-23000.php?page_id=96

Pattern  black line drawing: