I Don’t Want to Say Goodbye To The Summer

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Butterick 5493

Summer is my favorite season. I love sewing summer clothes. It’s the textiles, the colors and their style. It probably has something to do with detesting winter with every fiber of my being too. In my world sleeveless tops are a year round wardrobe staple. I am in and out of varying degrees of climate control. In other words the HVAC systems just aren’t the greatest or most consistent so I add and shed layers of clothing a lot. With that in mind, let me introduce Butterick 5493 view B, a sleeveless top pattern. This is a quick easy predictable pattern to construct.

Let’s get to the most important part first, the fabric. I chose a stable turquoise jacquard

knit from my stash that was from Canvasbacks, a manufacturer of high end women’s sportswear. My most interesting fabrics often come from the years when Canvasbacks sold their excess inventory. Think fantastic fascinating fabric from Europe at really low prices. Alas, they have gone out of business. As much as I mourn the loss my house thanks me. The sheer weight of the fabric I bought there makes my house groan. I digress in my textile grief.

This is a well drafted pattern, i.e. all the pieces matched the way they were supposed to. It is close fitting without being body hugging. The cut of the neck and shoulders stays in place and hides bra straps. It has a higher neckline in the back. I find that this helps a garment stay in place better than the lower options. I like the addition of the cowl. It is attached as a separate piece so there is not excess fabric in the bust area that is needed for a true cowl neckline. Depending upon the fabric used, this could be either a dressy or casual piece of clothing.  It is nice to have a simple garment that goes together quickly.

I almost always choose the size I make through a comparison of flat pattern measurements to the correlated measurements of good fitting garments that I own.  It works much better than trying to base my decision upon the information provided on the envelope or flat pattern measurements without such a reference. 5493 includes a bust dart. Patterns for knits have often ignored darts. Darts in knits, if you possess any bust above an A cup, make for a better fitting and more attractive garment. I did not adjust the dart and it fits fine for my C cup self. The other issue I have is low necklines. I am short. What might work on a taller person can create a “hoochie mama” revealing neckline on me. I compared this neckline to those in other garments and decided it would not turn “hoochie” on me. I always borrow Sandra Betzina’s hint to leave extra inches of fabric on the side seams when I cut the pattern out. This allows me to fit the garment without having to anticipate how the amount of stretch in the fabric will affect it. I find it can be hard to anticipate fit in this area with the large variation in the degree of stretch from one fabric to another. Leaving the extra fabric compensates for this variable.

After wearing this, there is a few tweeks I would make if I were to make it again. The first is individual to me. We all know we are not perfectly symmetrical on both sides of our body. Lately, I notice in the sleeveless clothes I sew, and the ones I purchase, the right armscye will fit fine. Then my left one will be lower and my bra will show. Not a good look. I like the other views, so when I make this again I am going to draft the left armscye bottom higher. This will mean I will have to draft a pattern front that is cut through a single layer rather 2 layers on the fold to compensate for the inconsistent shape between sides. The other adjustment would be to cut the neckline higher. This is a fairly stable knit so it doesn’t stretch out of shape easily. I think the weight of the cowl probably puts a little extra stress on the neckline. I have found as I wear the top it starts to droop with the stretch and is too low, especially when sitting. After raising the neckline, I will have to redraft the cowl a bit so that the curve and length in compatible. I am happy with the pattern and wouldn’t adjust anything else.

 

Butterick 5493 offers a variety of views. They differ enough stylistically the pattern can be used multiple times. I am not someone who likes to make the same pattern over and over, nor do I want to draft myself, so this is important to me. The accurate pattern drafting and easy fit of 5493 causes me to recommend this as a good pattern for a beginner to expert to make.

Links:

Pattern

 http://butterick.mccall.com/b5493-products-11205.php?page_id=972

French Vogue Declares, "Ralph Rucci: The National Treasure of American Fashion"

I have already explained my fascination with Chaddo Ralph Rucci. Consequently, you know I could not pass up sharing his Spring 2015 collection and translating the article at the end of this post from French Vogue that declares him an “American Fashion Treasure.”

First for the disclaimers, I do not speak one word of French, what I attempt to speak is mutilated by a horrible accent, we know the Internet translators are not always accurate and my ability to fix those language idiosyncrasies will be flawed by my ignorance. Despite this, I think you will get the jest of the article and appreciate the attention French Vogue gave to an American designer. 

 

Given that, the pictures in this article do not even come close to capturing the exquisite design details, construction and drape of Rucchi's Spring 2015 creations. I would have picked different garments from the collection to illustrate the points in the article, but what do I know compared to French Vogue? 

You have to watch this short video of the fashion show so you can appreciate his mastery of draping. If you love to sew fine garments you owe it to yourself.

 Click here to see the video of Ralph 's 2015 Spring Collection.

 Click here to see the still photos of the 2015 Spring collection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

French Vogue Article:

Ralph Rucci: The National Treasure of American Fashion

 

 New York Fashion Week, Day 2

 "Loved it! "Exclaimed Padma Lakshmi, wearing a dress-blue silk jumpsuit as she kissed Ralph Rucci backstage after his outstanding parade.

The designer, whose enamored coterie of groupies filled the glass workshop lined with books from floor to ceiling, deserves the title of "National Treasury of American fashion." His clothes are closest to the elegance of haute couture in New York.

From the top in white trapeze to the body-conforming to the sumptuous dress "Infanta" duchess satin in closing the parade, it was a tour de force.

Curiously, Ralph Rucci exposes his thoughts far and wide in the program notes, revealing his collection. He evokes the "balance" of his clothes, a high trapezoid forming a triangle over cigarette pants.

And then there is this technique he borrowed from his own couture: pipes laid on a bed of tulle. Having read the presentation, which began with a quote from the poet TS Eliot, I expected what these luxury watchmakers called "complications."

But in fact the clothing was a great masterpiece of cutting simplicity and that famous piping. That was inserted at the wrists and hips in a white jacket worn over narrow black pants.

If fashion is defined as either architects or designers, Rucci is a rare blend of the two, able to cut a rigorous coat whose motives are from his own designs.

The most modern piece was a glittering and translucent waterproof jacket with a pattern of pink cherry blossoms worn over a white blouse and black pants.

We, fashion journalists, are so conditioned to think that clothing with this level of manual work must  be "made ​​in Italy." It was nice to hear Ralph Rucci say that his entire collection was manufactured in his New York workshop.

And he said this with pride.

Taken from:

French Vogue 7 September, 2014

Suzy Menkes

INTERNATIONAL VOGUE EDITOR

Ralph Rucci : le trésor national de la mode américaine

Downloaded and translated using Google Tranlator on September 19, 2014 on: http://www.vogue.fr/suzy-menkes/la-chronique-de-suzy-menkes/articles/ralph-rucci-america-s-national-fashion-treasure-fw2015-suzy-menkes/23619

Smart Use of a Border Print from a Smart Blog

Blog Recommendation: Diary of a Sewing Fanatic

I have been following Carolyn's creations in her blog, "Diary of a Sewing Fanatic" for several years. She is one of those people that knows what she looks good in, what she likes to wear and has great technical skills. I peek in every once in a while to see what she has whipped up. Her use of a border print in this dress was so smart. She has a tried and true pattern she adapts all the time through different iterations using design details and modifications in the structure of the pattern. She assures fit this way while creating something that is different stylistically. You will find her work worth the viewing time. Plus, isn't that the cutest little baby in the background? Click here to go to The Diary of a Sewing Fanatic Blog.

Fascinating Details from Chanel

Incredible Talent and Work from Chanel - Courtesy of Rhonda Buss

My husband and I have a joke. I want to know how something works and he just wants it to work. I am a curious person. I love to find out how things are put together. The more complicated the better. Chanel's clothes are fascinating. I have never been able to examine them in detail. Rhonda Buss, Rhonda's Creative Life, has assembled a collection of images from Chanel's Fall Collection and video that shows them close-up in oh my gosh details. I have seen the video that is floating around the Internet where it shows how Chanel does beading. That was exquisite, but these videos show several garments up close and fascinating. You have to watch this if you love divine construction.

If you also dwell amongst the curious, take a look around Rhonda's Blog. She creates interesting patterns that through twists and turns create interesting garments. She often gives away the pattern and instructions. Her creations are as impressive in real life as they are on the Internet. There is no photo hocus pocus here. Lately, she has frequently been featured in "Sew News." I first saw Rhonda's garments during "show and tell" at the Chicago Haute Couture Club. They were always ones you wanted to see closer because her craftsmanship is detailed and technically on spot.

Quick. Click here to see this impressive collection of beauty and skill.

Kathy Eidsmoe Memorial Textile Collection: Answer for the Fabric Apocalypse

Some may say that I have too much fabric. I say I have a gold mine just waiting to appreciate when the Fabric Apocalypse falls upon us. It is an investment for when fabric scarcity is a harsh cold reality.

Inevitably, there will be a Fabric Apocalypse with the rate good fabric stores are going out of business. Where will you turn for that fabric you need? Where will you satisfy that hunger for textiles? Where will you acquire that fabric necessary to complete your garment? Me, I say, me!

Until then, don't scoff at the Kathy Eidsmoe Memorial Textile Collection. There will be a day when you humbly ask to see it. Maybe just maybe I will let you buy a small piece or two.

Sweet Little Pincushion Free Pattern & Tutorial

My early years were spent waking up under a quilt my great grandmother had made. I was fascinated with how worn it was at the top and what was underneath. It was so soft. I was drawn to all the little pieces of colorful fabric with the tiny prints. I guess I was a fabric geek even then. No one quilted in my family at that time but they did make clothes. I possessed a rudimentary understanding of  how they went together so I was curious about how that quilt was created. The fact that someone I was related to, but had never met, put that beautiful thing together created a mystery and a connection for me.

When I saw this free pincushion pattern it brought that memory rushing back to me.The flour bag fabrics and traditional pattern made me sentimental. I had not thought of the quilt that I had slept under for years.  Molly Flanders Makerie does an excellent job with the tutorial to walk even the least experienced through making this little gem. I took a peek at her other posts and her blog is definitely one worth following if you are a quilter or are interested in starting another fabric obsession.

Click here to access the tutorial.

 I am going to make this little pincushion to help me remember my sewing heritage. I was able to acquire quilts made by both my maternal great grandmothers and treasure them. I have the scraps of another that are waiting to discover how they are meant to be used. The quilt I slept under is gone. I think it was worn away by love and necessity.

It Always Starts with Interesting Textiles

I love fabric. I love bargains. I love design. 

Add them all up and they equal my newly redesigned bedroom. I love the thrill of the hunt when shopping. I collected and gathered things for the room over a long period of time by cruising clearance racks, Homegoods, TJ Maxx, Pier One, JoAnn Fabrics, and digging amongst gifts and stockpiles. I am the forever patient shopper when I am decorating. I will wait forever until I find what I want at a reasonable price. It takes awhile. Probably longer than what most would consider reasonable. In the end I am always happy with the end product.

The bed spread fabric was the starting point for everything. 

It whispered when I walked by and caught my attention on a JoAnn's clearance table.. It was out of my normal taste but it was so interesting that it inspired to me. It is a jacquard where the flowers are the only thing that weaves through from the other layer. I considered a duvet but settled for one layer that can be used for all seasons. I didn't use any kind of pattern but just based it upon bed measurements and where I wanted it to end. That fabric was some bratty stuff. It wanted to refuse to stay in place. Those interesting layers shifted and shimmied with no shame. The walking foot and miles of hand basting brought them into submission.

Design is in the details. A good bargain leaves room for indulgence. Hence the roped piping, whatever you call it, trim cost as much as the fabric.  It just wasn't enough. I decided to put two layers of trim together. I could have gone with just the piping, but there was something about the top layer, its colors, and pattern that just added an extra element in a needle bending breaking kind of way. I can't let things be easy. Where would the fun be in that?

Close-up of  curtain basket weave

I didn't have to make curtains! Did you hear me giggle just a tad insanely as you read that? I have made a lot of curtains this spring. It was so nice to pop my super bargain clearance that matched the bedspread perfectly curtains from
Target onto those rods.

Color is the soul of a room.

All those warm colors just wrap around me to create a peaceful place, but it needed just a little bit of cool to shine. From the beginning I decided the room needed some turquoise or teal so things didn't get monotonous.There was enough of it in different shades throughout the room I don't think I need to recover my glider. I learned last weekend that Kandinsky thought color and shape evoked emotional qualities. It was a reoccurring theme in his work. It must be why I have always like his work. Colors have a powerful effect on me and personality of a room.

My taste in art runs a huge gamut of style and content. 

Dropped in JoAnns, fell off wall, dented desk, not even a chip

I would like to say there was a master plan to the accessories, but in reality it is based more upon colors I like together, along with the pattern and content that captures my attention. My walls are covered with a gift from Zimbabwe, a shadow box that has been collected since college, pieces I acquired in our travels, a big glass platter that is impossible to break,(ask me how I know this) prints and plates from HomeGoods. They were all collected disparately and at different times with the curtains and bedspread as a reference point. It just always seems right to me that family pics should be in the bedroom. They remind me of what has the highest value in my life. They are the first thing I see in the morning and the last thing at night.

I like my clear based lamps amongst all of this. However, they open and you can put things in them. It will be interesting to see what makes their home in them eventually. At this point, I haven't identified anything that needs to be there.

All the other "stuff" are things from our families or personal past.

Furniture with memories.

The furniture represents a lot of relationships from our lives. Our bedroom set was a wedding present from my husband's wonderful parents. The antique cedar chest was passed on from my fabric loving hoarding aunt. The glider was originally bought for the nursery. Since then it has migrated though different rooms in my house and represents so many good memories.The vintage table the monster TV is on was purchased at rummage sale and refinished by my sister long ago. Do you think my husband would notice if I put the TV on the curb? That monstrosity is not my friend. My beloved roll top desk from my childhood is a little crowded but

needed a safe home. That is my Raggedy Ann from my

I love all the roofline angles but it furniture placement is limited.

childhood and my husband's Raggedy Andy from his. I think it is fun to see them together. I have wanted a mirror jewelry armoire for a long time. Last, Christmas my husband surprised me with this one. The bookcase is new but a total necessity. It will always be packed with books that I want to keep and a ton that I want to read. My books always overflow unapologetically.

I have always liked putting a bunch of things together in a room and see what emerges. It was fun to unpack those boxes where I had kept everything gathered along the way and bring that mental muse to fruition. Bonus, a sewing project mixed in to create something unique.

 

Click here to see more photos of the room.